Hiking the Enchantment Lakes
(Photos below)
September 9, 2005
By Eric
For almost a year we'd been planning a 4-day backpacking trip into the Enchantment Lakes with our dear friends, Brian and Hannah. But all of us were feeling frazzled from a busy summer and all except Eric could ill-afford more vacation time. So as the weather forecast went from marginal to bad to downright awful, we decided to skip the backpacking trip, take one day off from work, and get into the Upper Enchantments in a single day, traveling light, over Aasgard Pass.
The trip was arduous, of course, but we'd been expecting that. And we were slightly relieved actually, to encounter snow, wind, and fog, as well as rain-sodden miserable backpackers looking for a place to spend the night. It confirmed our decision to do the trip as a day hike.
The hike from the Stuart Lake Trailhead to Colchuck Lake is a good one. The perfect length and difficulty--with a great scenic payoff--for a day hike. From there, shivering in light rain, we gazed up at our first view of Aasgaard Pass and, I must admit, I was a little daunted. I couldn't see a clear route and it looked less like a trail than a hairy scrambling route. But what did I expect from a route that gains 2,200 feet in 3/4 of a mile?
We maneuvered around the lake, sometimes by trail, sometimes hopping over rain-slick boulders, until we reached the bottom of the pass. There, we gobbled down our first lunch, adjusted our clothing layers, and began the climb. The key, like any scramble or climb, was just to plod on slowly and steadily, not worrying about pacing. Eventually, somehow, you come out on the top. As we neared the crest, Brian forged on ahead into the gathering snow, while I waited chivalrously for the womenfolk. Once Hannah and Jill caught up, I promptly led us all off route onto snow-covered rocks, heading us toward Dragontrail. Eventually, it became clear that we were not where we should be--plus, where the heck was Brian? So by dead-reckoning, we doubled-back and found the trail again. At this point, however, we had no idea where Brian was. (Brian, as it turned out, had gone partway back down the trail, looking for the three of us.)
After a few yells and shouts we saw Brian far below us. No one was pleased with anyone else. Re-united at last, we crossed the pass into the basin of the Upper Enchantment Lakes. And what a view! Of fog! And snow! And maybe the gray surface of a mist-shrouded lake!
It was cold and windy too, so we hunkered down behind a large boulder and cooked a quick lunch of Top Ramen supplemented, of course, by Cheetos and other snacks. After we slurped down our meal, we packed up, threw on the last of our layers, and went for a quick tour of the region. But it soon became clear we weren't going to see anything up here and the wind wasn't getting any nicer. So after we chatted with some thoroughly miserable-looking backpackers (that could have been us!) we cleared the pass and started heading back down to Colchuck.
After just a few hundred feet the temperature and conditions improved dramatically. So as we picked our way down the steep and rocky route, we were able to enjoy watching the end of several relationships as men led their soon-to-be-former wives or girlfriends up the ridiculously steep pass into what was obviously terrible weather. Even parties who had not climbed far up the pass were clearly heading for a grim weekend. We all had a good laugh about it.
Back down at the lake, we made tracks for the car. We did, however, stop once more for our third (and much-needed) meal. After that, it was a veritable spring back to dry clothes and the promise of spaghetti and meatballs in Leavenworth. Numbed by ibuprofen and puffed-up by our adventure, we were back at the trailhead faster than we would have guessed. Not long after, we were seated at Visconti's--that Italian place in Leavenworth--and digging into what turned out to be the absolute worst spaghetti and meatballs I've ever eaten in my life. Anywhere.
But lousy dinner aside, we'd had a great adventure and by 11:00 that night I was in bed in a deep, deep coma.
Colchuck Lake with a view of Aasgard Pass, our route to the Enchantment Lakes.
Dragontail Peak shrouded in mist on our climb up the pass.
Looking back at Colchuck Lake from near the top of Aasgard Pass.
Jill, Brian, and Hannah enjoy a leisurely lunch on a balmy autumn afternoon at the Upper Enchantment Lakes, elevation 7,600 feet.
A pair of the Upper Enchantment Lakes.
The trail wending on down toward the Lower Enchantments. We followed long enough for a glimpse through the fog before retreating down the pass toward warmer weather.
Brian, Hannah, and Jill pause at the beginning of the descent of Aasgard Pass.
Sherpa Hannah.
The weather began to clear on our descent.
Autumn colors above Colchuck.
Yet another look down at Colchuck Lake.
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